Returning to China
An American's Experience
July 2024 marked my long-awaited return to China after an unexpected departure from the mainland in early 2020. Like many Peking University (PKU) alum, pandemic-related restrictions kept me away from the People’s Republic for an extended period. Thankfully, Covid measures have been lifted and my hiatus from mainland China has come to an end. While I returned for business reasons, I was able to squeeze in a bit of leisurely sightseeing. This blog is for anyone interested in contemporary China, especially those curious about how the country has changed since the pandemic.
Visiting the Beijing Olympics Organizing Committee as a Peking University Student in December, 2019
Overview of My Time in China
I started my journey in Xiamen, a major coastal city near Taiwan’s Kinmen Islands, where I spent time exploring the city’s rich history and seaside views. My next stop was Beijing, the capital of China. In between preparing students to compete in debate tournaments, I managed to revisit a few of my favorite spots from my graduate school days. It was good to see PKU’s Weiming Lake was just as beautiful as I remembered.
Peking University’s Weiming Lake. Photo from PKU’s Facebook Page
After Beijing, I spent a few days in Qingdao, a coastal city known for its blend of Chinese and Western architecture, where I enjoyed the mix of historical sites and modern developments. I wrapped up my visit with a quick stop to Guangzhou before heading back to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Each stop provided different experiences and perspectives on China’s evolving landscape. While much has stayed the same, there were some surprises.
What I Observed Along My Journey
1. Welcoming But Different
While traveling, several Chinese people approached me to tell me "Welcome to China!" in English. Their attitude seemed sincere, and the gesture felt kind and warm. Similarly, posing for photos with children, whose parents wanted a souvenir photo with a foreigner, was a relatively common occurrence.
I found it interesting how a short distance could create a seemingly vast difference in how my presence was interpreted. This was most noticeable while visiting Xiamen’s famous Zhongshan Road, a popular walking street filled with restaurants and dessert shops. Here, merchants still seemed accustomed to the presence of international tourists, compared to side streets where residents would react with more curiosity to my presence. A possible indication that international tourism has been slow to return, even to the more bustling metropolitan areas.
Overseas Chinese Museum in Xiamen
2. VPNs Don’t Really Work
Be prepared to experience issues with your Virtual Private Network (VPN). Despite using one of the largest mainstream VPN companies, I found it impossible to connect on Chinese Wi-Fi or with my Chinese data package. On the flip side, many of my Chinese friends using niche VPNs were sporadically successful in connecting to the outside world.
As an alternative, I purchased a special Chinese eSIM from China Mobile which comes with 3GB of data and can access foreign apps like Facebook and Google. This eSIM also allowed me to use my VPN, a feature my Chinese SIM card lacked. The downside is that the eSIM doesn’t include a phone number, rendering many essential Chinese apps, such as DiDi (the Chinese equivalent of Uber) and Meituan (the Chinese equivalent of Uber Eats), inaccessible.
3. Potential Difficulties for International Tourists Entering China
Good news! Traveling is getting easier for international visitors. Some positive steps include Alipay accepting international credit cards and the government encouraging mid- to high-end hotels to accept foreign credit cards. These are steps in the right direction, but at the moment, I find mainland China a challenging landscape for the average international tourist.
For example, even something as simple as getting a SIM card can be a major hurdle. While you can purchase SIM cards at the Beijing airport, the vendors are not open 24 hours, so be aware. I was finally able to purchase one at a Chinese SIM card store that frequently assists PKU students. Even then, I had to do it all in Chinese. This may be a major hurdle for most international travelers not familiar with the language.
Similarly, cash is not widely accepted, and foreigners will likely need to use WeChat Pay or Alipay. While Alipay has made it easier to use foreign credit cards, it still requires understanding the system in advance of travel.
4. A Lack of Native English Speakers
While traveling around China, I noticed a distinct lack of people from English-speaking countries. It was relatively rare to spot a Westerner. There were a handful of times when I thought someone might be American, but those instances were few and far between compared to the thousands of Chinese tourists I encountered along my journey. This may be because Xiamen and Qingdao are both well-regarded as attractive spots for domestic tourists but not as well-known internationally.
Chinese Tourists Visiting Xiamen’s Nanputuo Temple
5. The End of Cheap China?
It's still possible to find a delicious bowl of beef noodle soup for about $3, and China’s public transportation remains extremely affordable, with some bus rides costing as little as $0.15. However, if you prefer hotels and restaurants, the prices in China can add up. Finding a decent hotel in major cities for under $45 a night is tough, and a nice Western meal can easily cost $15 or more. These prices are noticeably lower than in the United States, but compared to Southeast Asia, definitely higher. The equivalent experience in Thailand or Vietnam can be found at a fraction of the price. As a result, if affordability is a top priority, a major tourist destination in China might not be the best choice.
Modern Café Serving International Brews in Xiamen
6. No More Laowai (老外)
For anyone who has spent significant time in China before the pandemic and was of obvious foreign origin, it was almost certain that at some point you’d be referred to as "laowai". This term, difficult to directly translate, can be described as a somewhat less-than-polite word for "foreigner". While the neutral term "waiguoren" (外国人) always existed, in my experience, its usage was mostly confined to classrooms and formal settings like the airport.
I vividly recall a 2016 excursion to the outskirts of Beijing. Unaccustomed to seeing foreigners, a little boy pointed at me, exclaiming, "Laowai! Laowai!" Such scenes were common enough in pre-Covid China, making it particularly striking to find that the term seemed to have fallen out of vogue upon my return. As a Chinese speaker, I could easily understand when people talked about me. This is particularly true for children, who have less of a filter. Still, the comments were almost unanimously neutral or positive.
Conclusion
As an international relations academic with a strong interest in China and the Asia-Pacific, returning to mainland China after such a significant period away was both enjoyable and intellectually stimulating. Over the years, I’ve seen many scholars and enthusiasts of China wonder what has changed and what remains the same since the pandemic. While much is familiar, there were moments when it felt like some real changes had occurred compared to my first trip to China in 2016. Exploring China from within is always an exciting challenge so do your homework and be prepared before you go. While China continues to evolve its business- and tourist-friendly practices, it can still be a struggle to navigate with ease. As for me, I’m already looking forward to my next return to mainland China
Alexander Parini is an academic, writer, and international relations specialist in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. He works as an international relations lecturer and global engagement liaison for the University of Economics and Finance. Alexander is an active member of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam and the Council of Taiwanese Chambers of Commerce in Vietnam (Ho Chi Minh City Branch).
Previously, he lectured at multiple universities in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, where he primarily taught international relations classes. Alexander holds a master's degree from SOAS University of London and Peking University. Before moving to Asia, he worked in U.S. politics and studied Political Science at Portland State University.
He is active on both LinkedIn and X (Twitter).